I version 2 (V2) har jag lagt till en funktion som skiljer på tjänstepension (TRAD – traditionell) och övriga sparformer (Tjänstepension FOND, ISK/KF). De sistnämnda har ofta högre förväntad avkastning men också större volatilitet.
Med avsikt har jag valt att förenkla genom att sätta korrelationen till 0 mellan TRAD och övrigt, samt att inte särskilja olika sparformer åt efter åldern då Allmän pension träder in (styrs av dig i kalkylator).
Men bättre prestanda i V2, så har den tidigare tiden för senaste uträkningen tagits bort, så den inte fyller någon funktion längre.
Uppdatering 2026-02-12:
Uppderad version (V2) finns nu tillgänglig, baserad på en ny "Monte Carlo-motor" som är byggd med Formler iställer för Data-tabeller. Detta gör att filen blir något större, men också märkbart snabbare att kalkylera simuleringar för att få fram svar till analysen. Har därför ökat antal simuleringar till 2000 för ännu bättre resultat (29% lägre osäkerhet). Detta ökar mängden data från 100 till 200 datapunkter för P10 och P90. Från cirka ±2% osäkerhet, är den nu istället ±1.3% (P10, P90).
När kan du sluta lönearbeta?
Har alltid varit intresserad av att samla och att planera för oförutsedda ekonomiska situationer. Så när jag nyss ställdes inför frågan, om jag egentligen sparar för mycket (eller kanske fortfarande för lite) till pensionen. Då blev jag nyfiken på vilken sida av sträcket jag egentligen stod på, och var på gråskalan jag är idag. Därför har jag gjort en svensk kalkylator för att räkna utifrån Monte Carlo-simuleringar utifrån antaganden om: sparform och aktiemarknaden; sparhorisont, risk och osäkerhet. Eftersom det jag själv hittade, under min (korta) efterforskning, mest var lösningar riktade mot den amerikanska marknaden, med funktioner som 401(k) med flera, och inte med det svenska pensionssystemet i åtanke.
Då jag nu gjort min egen variant, vill jag gärna dela med mig av den om det finns fler som vill svara på samma frågor:
Sparar jag för lite eller mycket? När kan jag sluta spara? När behöver jag inte lönearbeta mer?
Nya utmaningar väntar. Idag är det nämligen dags för mig att börja på Ateles, som en av deras projektledare. Ser fram emot en ny anställning med nya spännande uppgifter, kunder och kollegor. Valet att byta från en bra arbetsgivare till en annan var dock inte helt lätt att ta. Samtidigt så känns det i magen att det var rätt beslut just här och nu att ta det här steget. Känns även rätt att närma sig en bransch med ljusa framtidsutsikter, nämligen försäljning och produktlansering via webb. Otroligt nyfiken och förväntansfull för vad det här steget ska ta mig och C.A.G Ateles AB.
I årsredovisningen (2020) hos C.A.G går det att läsa om passion för utveckling, och att C.A.G har kunderbjudande som erbjuder specialist- och verksamhetskonsulting inom IT-management, systemutveckling, drift och förvaltning. Med omsorg och långsiktighet bidrar vi till våra kunders utveckling, i stora som små projekt. Kan det bli bättre?
…och under rubriken ”Varför jobba på C.A.G?” listas:
I believe this post is for a smaller group of somewhat nerdy people, so I will write it in English rather than Swedish for my usual Swedish blog audience. Enjoy!
Page versions:
2021-11-08: First public version of this post.
2021-11-25: Installed a modified (and externally powered) USB hub.
2021-11-29: Project paused. Trying to troubleshoot why MemTest give me errors. Waiting for a new SDRAM.
2022-01-06: New SDRAM arrived, but with similar performance issues. And a CEC blocker didn't do any difference for the build. Same issues remains but when I disconnected the PS1 power unit supply (PSU) seem to give me better MemTest results.
2022-01-20: Hurray!! I found the solution to the previous power issue I had. The fix? A new step-down module (XL4005) instead of the old (🤬) LM2596.
2022-02-03: Installed the upcoming PSX core (unstable build) in the MiSTer Station. Updated the chapter PSX core.
2022-12-31: Added info about the new SNAC PSX adapter (not in this build) to the "Todo / Future backlog". Clean up in this Page version section.
2023-03-08: Updated the software parts of this page a bit. Added videos and texts. Removed the separate SAM chapter (now included in Update All)
2024-10-07: Almost bricked the setup after a update via update_all.sh, so I added a section in Chapter 3 for a manual update of Linux, MiSTer and the Menu core.
2026-03-16: Improvments of the lauguage of the blog post. Enjoy!
❌ Current unsolved issues with this build
The PS1 PSU use approx 10 to 11 Watts (rate as 10 W on the back sticker). PS1 PSU output seem to be approx. 6-7 V and 1 A. Compared to the 6 to 7 Watts of the original DE10-Nano Power brick.
Solution: Works anyway. I will ignore this finding for now.
Optional: Experiment with a small fan (and fan control?). Because I almost burn myself on the CPU heatsink. Figures that this kind of heat couldn’t be a good thing for the board, in the long run.
Optional: Make the Reset button (on the Playstation case) work (maybe with a transistor solution, connected to the I/O board in pin P3?).
If this would have been built in the late 2022. I should have tried to squeezed in the SNAC PSX adapter (better latency and power handling) instead of the (sort of ugly) blue USB adapter used in my build. Please find more via the link(s) below:
In my occasional series of tech DIY guides, such as the earlier Pacemaker SSD upgrade, and NESPi 4, I will share an overview of my latest project here. I present to you *drum roll*…The MiSTer Station (though you probably already knew that from the title). You can also call it a PlayStation 1 (aka PSX or PS1) DIY case mod, if that is more your cup of tea (or coffee), I don’t judge.
1.1 Pictures of the final result
The Mister Station case.
This is what a ”DE10-Nano MiSTer in a Playstation” look like inside out.
I/O on the back. HDMI, USB-A (2.0), Audio out 3.5 mm and Power in (230 V).
Running unstable PSX core in MiSTer, in the final build.
1.2 Story behind the build
My main goal was to build a gaming computer inside a PlayStation case. The goal was to keep the exterior as intact as possible while making it function like modern technology in terms of input and output. For convenience, USB and HDMI output were minimum requirements.
Since it already had a built-in PSU, I decided early on to keep it along with the original power cord. This meant I was restricted to 10 W for the internal components.
After some research, I chose the DE10-Nano (5V, 2A) and the MiSTer project. I liked the idea of using accurate hardware as the backbone for running retro games. Since some skilled programmers like FPGAzumSpass (Twitter, Youtube, Patreon) and Laxer3A (Twitter, Patreon) work(ed) on the PSX core. Of course, it would be nice if this build could play PS1 games in the future. And maybe, just maybe, I could dig out some long-forgotten PS1 games from that nostalgic old box in the attic when this is all done.
Wait, what?! Are you not familiar with MiSTer FPGA? OK, let’s start from the beginning. I then recommend you to read a bit on the retro gaming phenomena Here, Here and/or watch some good YouTube videos on it, like this one below, before continuing this article:
My main concern before I started this build was the power consumption of the Terasic DE10-Nano board, together with all the additional accessories, such as:
a non-powered USB splitter or USB hub inside the case.
the front port solution with the controls, and
an analogue extension I/O board.
I couldn’t find specifications for most of these parts before buying them.
Playstation hardware – Space within the case.
I knew there was actually quite a lot of space to work with, based on my previous NESPi 4 case mod (a Raspberry Pi 4 in an old NES box). But, I also knew that cable plugs sticking out of the board, along with the cables themselves, would take up far more space than it might initially seem..
Know-how
MiSTer project
I knew very little about this at the beginning of the build. Were there any restrictions or any missing or buggy software?
Soldering
I am in no means a master of soldering, so bear with me 🙂. It can take a while, and the results may vary, but with some patience this should not be a major risk. In the worst case, I might break something, pay extra for replacement parts, and have to start over. For example the DE10-Nano itself (as I later on would be painfully aware of. Woops.).
Playstation hardware
In the beginning I didn’t knew a whole lot about the PSU or the controller ports. But I was sure I would gain more knowledge during the process. The same was true for the other electronic parts, as well as the plastic case itself.
Good, now that that is out of the way, we can begin looking at the actual hardware and the building process.
Let’s make this look a bit neater and a little less shockingly dangerous without the top cover.
2.1 The parts of the build
As always, when you try to mix things together, it is good to have a recipe in hand. Here is my list of “ingredients,” split into three parts: Base, Full, and Front Ports:
Base
1 pcs DE10-Nano board. I tried ordering from both MiSTer addons and Mouser. The latter came without smashed cover glass, so I may use Mouser again if I buy another one in the future.
Playstation 1 console. (SCPH-7002 in my case.. pun intended)
Some sort of back plate material. (I used some sort of white plexiglas, 3 mm thick.)
Powered External USB hub (like Gembird UHB-U2P7-03). For Bluetooth adapter, keyboard and WiFi adapter. Therefore I recommend minimum of 4 USB ports are recommended.
Power cord, if you want the option to also use the DE10-Nano standard power socket for test or whatever purpose. (I also included an unnecessary switch in my build, don’t do that if you are looking for space optimisation.)
One or two original PlayStation controllers (of course).
Flat jumper cables. I mostly used 20 cm female-to-male cables, but buy a bunch of different lengths before you begin.
2.2 How-to fit all the hardware parts in there
A good start is to begin in the late year of 1997, with a SCPH-7002 (PAL) – 220-240V & 10W.
Strip it of everything electrical except the power supply unit (PSU), the front ports, the buttons, and the top CD cover. Also trim the bottom plate a bit to make room for the main DE10-Nano RAM module. After the picture was taken, I also removed the little plastic rocket 🚀 in the bottom center in the picture above. Reason? Because the ribbon cable to the I/O board needed the space under the main board.
Cut this part to get more room for the DE10-Nano board and also the screw hole in the top left corner (in the picture).
The result:
This is what I ended up with.
If you are going to install an I/O board and/or use the GPIO ribbon extension, you will need to cut these “plastic towers” as well:
Before and…
…after pictures.
And also take the plastic pin out and cut of some of its holder, like this. Especially if you use the same USB mounting cable as I did (see the chapter about the I/O back panel):
I used my Dremel, and it was an easy task. Just watch out so you do not hit the cover-opening mechanism in all this grey plastic excitement.
Power
Somehow I managed to kill the first board by soldering these wires. So this time I did a minimum solder effort. But it did the trick anyway.
The step-down module I used is an XL4005. ⚠ Do not use the LM2596 that I used first. Since it gave the build all sorts of power issues.
Down-step voltage (⚠ the picture show my old faulty LM2596):
I made space for other parts by fastening the down-step module (LM2596, datasheet) (XL4005, datasheet) to the other side of the PSU wall. The dimensions of the XL4005 are 61.7 mm × 26.2 mm × 15 mm, and it fits perfectly.
A heatsink on the XL4005 is a good idea, as usual 🔥.
Set it to 5.15 V (the same as the original DC wall plug, as measured with my multimeter), after stepping down from the previous 6.18 V or 7.56 V from the PS1 PSU (this differs depending on usage and measurement tool, so I am not entirely sure here).
Place two (or three) small screw brackets underneath the board to make the bulky HDMI sockets fit. Also used one of the original DE10-Nano silicone feets to block the original power input.
Not too high, because the network (RJ45) port will hit the top cover. In contrast, it may be a good idea to keep the board a bit tight against the top part above that network port, so that the DE10-Nano cannot move inside the PlayStation case later on.
Note: If you want, you can use the extra space under the board itself for cable management or for things like a USB cable or the 40-pin ribbon cable extension (see the later chapter on the I/O board installation).
Standoffs in three of the four corners make it reasonably secure. No brackets, and it is not even screwed into the board itself in the end.
The front ports
Take a deep breath and heat up your soldering iron. Note that a PS1 controller sometimes has 8 pins, but we only use 7 here (1–6 and 8). For the rest, I will let the pictures (A, B, C) below speak for themselves:
A) Remove the blue plastic shell from the USB-to-PS1/PS2 hub and start soldering some wires.
B) Take off the metal panel and follow the coloured wires to the existing solder joints shown in this picture.
C) I used some cable ties for a tidier result.. #cablemanagement FTW.
Power consumption
Now back to the topic of power consumption (remember my concern in the Risk chapter about power consumption?). To test the power consumption of the parts, but mostly to stress-test the PS1 PSU itself. I have written my conclusions and some numbers below for anyone who may find them helpful:
I bought myself an EU socket watt measurement tool, and a USB Volt/Ampere meter named ”Charger Doctor”. With an internal 5.15 V supply, (down-steped from PSU voltage output 7,56 V, though it should have been 7.4 V according to Retroconsoles.fandom.com) from my PSU, running on an EU mains supply of 234–237 V, it showed the following results:
The MiSTer (DE10-Nano with 128 MB RAM) with that PS1 PSU and attached LM2596 used around 8.60 W at idle and 9.15 W maximum during startup, with no USB devices plugged in. A USB adapter (micro to USB-A) added 0.16 W, for a total of 8.76 W. Adding a non-powered 2-port USB hub to the adapter lowered the total power draw to 8.52 W. When I added my blue PS1/PS2 hub (2 ports) to the USB hub, the total power draw was 9.39 W at idle. Adding one PS controller (SCPH-1200) increased power draw by 0.03 W, and adding another (SCPH-10010) added 0.44 W to the equation. Connecting only one SCPH-1080 controller added around 0.18 W. Note that I had not plugged in the HDMI cable or started anything from the start menu during this test.
When I did so and started the DE10-Nano with HDMI attached but no USB devices connected, it used 9.35 W maximum during startup and 8.95 W at idle.
It is also worth noting that my BT USB dongle (CSR 4.0) added almost 1 W when it was plugged in while searching for devices to pair with.
With only the PS1 (SCPH-7002) plugged in and not powered on, it used 1.06 W.
The micro-USB port output was approximately 4.6 V with my 2-port USB hub connected and its ports empty.
Also, if I added the I/O board below (+ USB hub, HDMI, analogue audio cable, front-port hub, and one SCPH-1200 controller), it reached over 10 W (10.5 W) during startup. But it seem to work fine (even under the pressure of some SNES Super Mario World play).
The test:
[Warning and disclaimer]
I did this so you do not have to. It might be a bad idea to load the PlayStation PSU this heavily.
⚠ I did this test with my old (incompatible) LM2596 step-down module.
How I did it:
I ran MemTest to put the board under maximum load.
The starting value was 10.98 W, and the maximum power consumption at the end of the test was 11.50 W.
Picture of the watt meter after 30 minutes of testing.
Analogue I/O Board
One good thing to have in any electrical DIY build is the schematics. For the analogue I/O board v6.1, you can find the schematic Here.
I/O board connected via a GPIO extension cable.
I removed the fan for space optimisation, to reduce moving parts, and to improve power efficiency. I added a heatsink because – it could not hurt, right?
One issue: The Eurorack/ribbon connection does not fit if we try to put the top cover back on. Solution 1: remove the opening mechanism from the case so that the CD cover can no longer open. Not a very nice solution, so I went with Solution 2 instead, which was to modify the ribbon cable like this:
The black cogwheel gets stuck on the GPIO connector. Sorry for the bad picture. I guess you just have to believe me then.
Modified ribbon connector:
By force (and with no finesse), I removed the top part of the ribbon cable. This is the leftovers.
I took the top part off with a sharp tool and cut and filed the rest until it no longer touched the black cogs. I also plugged the ‘Arduino_Reset_n’ pin into the P9 pin on the I/O board using a specially designed jumper wire (a bent pin without its black cover, male to female).
Picture of the P9 pin on the back side of the I/O Board 6.1 (analogue edition). And since the internet seems to lack pictures of the bottom of the MiSTer Analog I/O board and the connection underneath it, I will just put this one here. You are most welcome.
Picture of when the pin 9 is plugged in.
OK… I confess, this is a bit overkill for me to put an I/O board like this inside the MiSTer Station. Because it is mostly for the audio-out functionality, this sounded like a good idea in the first place. But hey, this is more “retro-proof” (the opposite of future-proof) this way, with analogue video out included just in case. If I go full retro someday. The audio-out port is worth it anyway, since I now only need a computer screen and some headphones or an audio receiver.
I added a real-time clock (RTC v1.3) as well.
Now I have another problem. The USB adapters, USB hub, and USB cables take up a tremendous amount of the space left in the case. And I still have not put the back ports in place. Time to be creative.
Mounting I/O ports to the back.
This is what we are aiming for.
First, we need to create and add a new back plate for the I/O of your choice. In my case: one female USB port and one female 3.5 mm analogue audio-out jack.
Start by finding a piece of plastic or plexiglass that you have available.
Then saw, cut, or file it so that it fits perfectly in the case. Make it as high as possible, but still low enough that the case can be closed properly.
When you try to close the top CD cover, you might realise that it does not close properly. It is because of the tight space here:
Before the minor fix to fit the back panel.
It is too narrow for the back plate, so I recommend cutting into the case itself rather than into the homemade back cover. End result after some Dremel work:
Top view after the plastic surgery.
Side view #1 after the modification.
Side view #2 after the modification.
Back panel in the making. With tape to make it possible to mark where to cut.
Back panel outside the case.
I drilled holes for the screws and the audio jack. Including countersunk holes so the screws would not stick out too much from the white plastic. I glued extra pieces of plastic in place to support the force from later cable insertions.
I glued the back panel to the case, and together with some cable-management magic, it looked like this.
At last, I needed to remove a grey cog with my Dremel. This was just to make it possible to close the top CD lid without it hitting the inside of the USB connector (I also carved into the black plastic of the USB next to the screw, just to be safe).
Before the makeover.
2.3 Power vs USB hub. (Aka installing USB hub without back powering the MiSTer.)
One new issue appeared when I connected my powered USB 2.0 hub (5 V, 2 A; Gembird UHB-U2P7-03) to the MiSTer/DE10-Nano (including the LM2596). When I shut down the PlayStation PSU, the MiSTer did not shut down with it because it was still receiving 5 V through the USB hub.
The solution?
1. Cut the USB hub cable in half! 😆
(…or just cut the red wire inside the cable if you are not going to use heat-shrink tubing as I did.)
2. Then solder it back together without connecting the red VCC +5 V wire. See the USB pinout schematic for details.
3. Test the wires to make sure there are no short circuits.
2.4 Reset button
⚠ Section is not yet finished – But the idea is to control the I/O board P3, btn_reset pin 3 (= pin 17 on GPIO1) and GND pin 5 with a transistor (2N2222, datasheet) via the PlayStation PSU (7.56 V pin 1 and GND pin 5), activated by the momentary reset switch.
Heatsinks – Tring to handle the heat in the somewhat closed case.
The first step-down module (LM2596) I used failed, possibly because of heat. The MemTest performance seemed to be affected by whether the top CD lid was open or closed. During the troubleshooting process, I switched to a better-performing module (XL4005) and at the same time added a heatsink to it, just in case.
Heatsink on the step-down (XL4005) module.
Before this step-down module replacement from LM2596 to XL4005. I ran the MiSTer MemTest with the top CD lid open. It first seemed stable at 122 MHz (after about 2.5 hours). I then closed the lid, and it first ran at 122, then dropped to 120, and finally ended up in the low 110 MHz range.
”fastest any core needs is 126Mhz, if the speed never drops below this it does not matter. The only core that even requires 126Mhz is the Archie core (Acorn).” – Nat
Later findings showed that it was not heat in the SDRAM that caused MemTest to fail. The issue disappeared when I stopped using the PS1 power supply unit and also after switching to the new XL4005 step-down module. But since I had already used RAM heatsinks during the troubleshooting process, I will show them here in case anyone is interested in doing the same:
6 aluminium heatsinks (7 mm x 7 mm x 6 mm).
Heatsinks on the 128 MB RAM module.
[Future/Optional idea] Use of a fan.
One idea is to experiment later with a chassis fan to find out whether it makes any difference to the CPU/FPGA temperature.
A fan like this one will fit along the sides of the PS1 case (by the side vents):
If you are like me, sitting around waiting for tech parts to arrive in Sweden in 2021, you can always make a light custom MiSTer logo in the meantime… or just use mine:
”Mr. Fusion is a tiny, custom Linux distribution designed to run on the DE10-Nano and install MiSTer. It comes in the form of a compact image that you can download and flash onto an SD card of any size with a tool like Apple Pi Baker, balenaEtcher, Win32 Disk Imager or even dd.” – https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/mr-fusion
MiSTer.ini (settings)
This is the main configuration file for MiSTer settings. It can be edited manually or changed through the GUI in MiSTer. For example:
MiSTer IO Board v6.1 with Fan
”Configuration of the video output signal on the IO board is controlled via the MiSTer.ini file, more information on how to configure and download of the MiSTer.ini file see the MiSTer.ini configuration page.” – (2021, misterfpga.co.uk)
Also via an online INI generator: https://ini.misterkun.io/ (unavailable by November 2021). As shown in the video below:
Custom background picture and logo
I first created a wallpaper template (3840 × 2160) that I used in Paint.net to add a custom background with a new MiSTer Station logo. Here it is:
Then, to remove the existing logo, I hid the current one using a variable setting in MiSTer.ini (/media/fat/).
; 0 - disable MiSTer logo in Menu core
logo=0
The result with a custom background and the MiSTer Station logo.
A new desktop wallpaper as a .jpg file (named menu.jpg) should be placed in the root folder next to the menu.rbf file. In the MiSTer menu, press F1 to switch to the new wallpaper. Voilà!
Tip: You can find some wallpapers to use with the template above here, on wallpaperflare.com:
A great start is to make sure you have the latest — and highly recommended — Update_all script installed. It provides an all-in-one update experience for the system, cores, and much more.
Note: Always back up your SD card before you start an update. Me, myself and I use Win32DiskImager to create an .img backup of the card. That way, you can always roll back by flashing the card to its pre-update state. This has saved me more than once, so just trust me on this.
TThis unofficial updater uses the official Downloader along with other data sources for this task. Including data from:
Main Distribution
JTCORES for MiSTer
Names TXT. (For better core names in the menus.)
BIOS Database.
Arcade ROMs Database
Unofficial Cores
Unofficial Scripts
Tips: Remember that you also can use SSH to run or do your updates.
(The default username/password is root/1)
When the update_all script runs, it will prompt you with the ongoing task along with a symbol system like this:
. = A file finished downloading.
\* = Waiting for files to download. It will display one each second if no other symbols are printed.
\~ = Some error / timeout occurred, and that download will be retried automatically.
As described by the creator, theypsilon, on Reddit:
I also recommend that you back up the following items manually rather than relying on the update scripts. This is because an update once bricked the system for me, and I had to start over with a fresh install.
Here is how to update the following:
Linux,
Mister, and
Menu core
At the time (2024-10-07), I used: mr-fusion-v2.9.img.zip, release_20241007.7z, MiSTer_20240912, and menu_20240408.rbf.
Playstation MiSTer FPGA core. Is it a good idea to make this core? Yes. Is it a total awesome idea? Absolutely! Was it finished at the time I wrote this? Nope.Yes — now it is
In conclusion, it is absolutely worth supporting the developer with a few bucks. ”Go find and support FPGAzumSpass via Patreon.” — Mr. Obvious. (EDIT: This Patreon page is now closed as mr. Wonderful Robert moved on to other projects.)
…or install the PSX core outside of the Update_all script
When you are ready, you can follow the guide at https://vampier.net/PSX/ to install the MiSTer PSX core.
As of 2022-02-02 (unstable build) you can also follow this YouTube clip:
…or in short:
Update the MiSTer
Copy the PSX core to /media/fat/_Console/
Make the SD card directory /media/fat/games/PSX/
Add/copy the BIOS file SCPH1001.bin to the new PSX directory. Rename it to bios.rom.
Add/Copy bin/cue files to PSX directory.
Add/Copy empty memory card files (mem_v1.mcd, mem_v2.mcd) to somewhere on the MiSTer SD card. I used /media/fat/saves/.
Set controller buttons and mount memory card files in the OSD PSX core. Save settings. Start a game.
4. Bonus
As a celebration to the Sony PlayStation you can look at this massive (1:22:25) history lesson:
Thank you for your time, and good luck if you are about to build something similar yourself!
För ett tag sedan spelade vi det korta och barnvänliga sällskapsspelet Dingo. Dock var instruktionerna om spelets reglerna borta, och vi hittade enbart delvis dem på internet. Inte heller verkade det gå att köpa det på nytt. Så nu, när vi faktiskt loppisfyndat ett Dingo-spel, så bjuder internet på ett citat av de fullständiga spelreglerna. Så om nu någon (motförmodan?) sitter där ute i landet med ett gammalt Dingo och bara längtar efter att få spela denna kulturskatt som det var tänkt. Då är svaret här. Semestern är räddad 😉
Citat svenska (Peliko, Offason ab 2010):
Regler
Innehåll
7 set à 5 kort, visande samma djurmotiv.
21 plastbrickor.
Förberedelser
Börja med att blanda leken väl, lika många set som antalet spelare, dvs
4 spelare = 20 kort, lägg resten till sidan.
Spelets gång
Dela, av den väl blandade leken ut fem kort till varje spelare, samt tre plastbrickor.
Alla spelare har korten på hand och skickar ett kort vidare till spelaren på sin högra sida, tills någon fått 5 lika kort på sin hand.
Spelordning
Varje spelare tar ett kort från sin hand, placerar det med bildsidan mot bordet, framför sin högra medspelare. Så fort alla spelare lagt ner ett kort framför sin högra granne, tar alla på ett NU, upp kortet de tilldelats. Proceduren upprepas tills en spelare har 5 lika kort på handen. Då detta sker, skall spelaren i fråga, snabbt lägga sin hand på bordet, och ropa DINGO.
Så fort de andra spelarna hör DINGO, måste de, så snabbt de kan, lägga sin hand ovanpå ”Dingoutroparens” hand.
Den som sist lägger sin hand, måste ge en av sina plastbrickor till rundan vinnare.
Spelet pågår de antal rundor ni gemensamt bestämt vid spelstart.
Den som samlat flest plastbrickor vinner spelet.
Idag är det första dagen för mig på IT-konsultföretaget Nethouse. En ny anställning och en ny fas i arbetslivet. Från föräldraledighet till nya konsultuppdrag. Det ska bli väldigt intressant att få se vilka nya uppdrag som jag kommer att landa i och vilka nya erfarenheter/utmaningar som kommer att dyka upp.
”Mot oändligheten och vidare.” – Buzz Lightyear (Toy Story, 1996)
